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Vancouver Hiking Magazine July 2012 Wedgemount Lake and Hot Springs

 

 

Tofino Ucluelet Hiking Magazine - Virgin Falls

 

 

Hot Springs From Vancouver Location Map

 

 

Wedgemount Lake Stats - Vancouver Hiking Magazine July 2012

 

Wedgemount Lake, Whistler BC

Amazing alpine lake, accessible glacier and breathtaking mountain peaks

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If you were to search your whole life for an absolutely amazing, astoundingly perfect, alpine hiking paradise, you'd have trouble finding a place as great as Wedgemount Lake in Whistler, just 1.5 hours from Vancouver.  To start with, the lake is breathtaking.  Every angle you look at it and every hour of the day it alters Wedgemount Lake in July - Vancouver Hiking Magazine July 2012its appearance dramatically.  From its wonderful turquoise, marble-like appearance reflecting bronze mountains at sunrise and sunset.  To its startlingly vivid appearance in the darkness of night.  Reflecting stars are as clear looking down on the lake as they are looking up at the sky.

The massive valley that contains Wedgemount Lake is ringed by impressive mountains and the ever-present Wedgemount Glacier that continuously pulls your attention to it.  The trail that leads around the lake to the glacier takes only 20-30 minutes and is quite amazing to explore.

Wedgemount Glacier, at its edge, has what is called a glacier window.  A huge ice cave, created out of the melting underneath this huge, crushing mass of ice.  You can get right up close to this impressive ice cave and have a drink of what was just moments before ice left thousands of years ago before Wedgemount Lake was called Wedgemount Lake.

The Huge Glacier Window Seen From Across the Valley - Vancouver Hiking Magazine July 2012

 

 

Wedgemount Lake from the Trail to the Glacier - Vancouver Hiking Magazine July 2012

Though glaciers can never really be considered safe to hike on, the Wedgemount Glacier is relatively safe.  Hiking up the glacier by bearing left, close to the rocky Mt James Turner from the Wedge Weart Col - Vancouver Hiking Magazine July 2012edge will lead you after about an hours, very strenuous hiking to the top of the glacier into the Wedge-Weart Col.  Wedge Mountain is the highest mountain in all of Garibaldi Park at 2891 metres, and Weart is the massive mountain to the left of Wedge if looking from the lake.  The col in between them is amazing.  The views all around are incredible.  But the further you explore around Wedgemount Lake, the more you come to conclude that the entire place is wonderful.  Just wonderful.

From the Wedge-Weart Col you can see the distant, very distant, Matterhorn looking, Mount James Turner.  Wedge is the setting off point for this spectacular, multi-glacier, three day hike.  Of course, seen from the col, your eyes tracing the probable route along the Lord of the Rings sized glacier valleys below.  The feasibility of how anyone can find a way to its summit leaves you wide eyed.

Mt James Turner Close-up from the Wedge Weart Col - Vancouver Hiking Magazine July 2012

 

 

Wedge Mountain from the Wedge Weart Col - Vancouver Hiking Magazine July 2012

Then you turn your eyes to Wedge Mountain right next to you.  Nearly anyway.  You climbed, breathless for hours to get where you stand at the Wedge Weart Col, and you look at the route (one of many routes) to the summit of Wedge, and your eyes get wider.  From the col it is mystifying how the summit could be reached.  But it can.  Stand here long enough and a couple of determined hikers will trudge past you.  Crampons punching into the snow, ice axe fastened to their packs, and more often than not, a leathery complexion that proclaims that Wedge is not their first big summit.

Turning your back on Wedge now you look gradually upward as the snowy col gives way to scree and boulders that lead up to Weart Mountain.  This is probably the most climbed mountain in the area.  It doesn't require special equipment, ropes, helmets, crampons, etc.  Not usually in July anyway.  And can be reached via the Wedge-Weart Col or more often down the glacier near the glacier window.  About 300 metres past the glacier window, on the way to the col, Weart can be reached by hiking left up the steep scree and boulders along one of the many small, yet very tall waterfalls cascading down the rocks.

Weart gives you the best vantage point for photographing Wedgemount Lake as it stretches out, elongated below you until it disappears over the edge via Wedgemount Falls.  Wedgemount Falls is 296 metres tall and can be seen at a distance from the Wedgemount Lake trail about 30 minutes from the end or top of the trail.

The Approach to Weart - Vancouver Hiking Magazine July 2012

 

 

Weart Mountain From Wedgemount Lake - Vancouver Hiking Magazine July 2012

Back down at Wedgemount Lake, looking up the the towering Weart Mountain, there is an amazing glacier that connects Weart to yet another mountain, Cook Mountain.  Cook Mountain is the easiest of all the peaks around.  All other mountains around are very difficult, intermediate hikes requiring some expertise and very The Wedgemount Lake Hut - Vancouver Hiking Magazine July 2012good health, whereas Cook is only moderately difficult.  You do hike through quite a difficult boulder field much of the way and the trail is easily lost, but if you keep to the trail and a good pace its only about 90 minutes from the hut at the lake.

The Wedgemount Lake hut is located in the midst of the huge boulder field that cascades down from Cook mountain.  Built in 1970 it has been well used and well kept as a base for hiking in this area.  Despite the area being buried under metres of snow much of the year, the Wedgemount Lake hut is sometimes used in the winter.  Wedge Mountain is a popular ski touring destination and can be reached on skis from Blackcomb Mountain, which of course lies next to it, with Whistler Mountain beyond Blackcomb.

The Wedgemount Hut is another aspect of this wonderful place that makes it an amazing place to hike.  It is basic, but beautiful.  It contains two large tables which are equally used as beds, a small window and a big loft area which could, though crowded, sleep four people.  The hut could sleep six quite comfortably and eight a bit crowded.  In the winter with snow outside, the Wedge Hut is extraordinarily warm inside.  Kept clean by the rarely seen Garibaldi Park wardens, the hut has an outhouse close by that is up steep stairs, at least partly to keep it above the deep snow in the winter, but also to rise above the sewage tank below which is periodically helicoptered out.

The Wedgemount Lake Hut in Snow - Vancouver Hiking Magazine July 2012

 

 

Wedgemount Lake Lower Tent Platform - Vancouver Hiking Magazine July 2012

The Wedgemount Hut is among the beautiful boulder field looking down on the beautiful lake below and the distant Wedgemount Glacier.  A short, five minute walk down to the lake leads to some very picturesque and private rock outcrops perfect for diving in.  Though even in the heat of July, the water hovers just over freezing.  But its mesmerizing colour, brilliant turquoise, is dazzling up close.

Around the Wedgemount Hut there are ten amazingly luxurious, wooden tent platforms.  All of them have great views and are beautifully situated to usually be well Wedgemount Lake Tent - Vancouver Hiking Magazine July 2012apart from each other.  Having truck sized boulders all around makes them fairly easily separated.  Up the hill from the hut, past the outhouse there are more tent platforms.  Each, well hidden from below, so you have to follow the visible trails to find them.  Despite being hidden they command great views as well and have the benefit of being near a little stream with excellent water.

Standing at the entrance to the Wedge Hut and looking down to the lake you might be able to make out several more tent platforms along the gravel shore of the lake.  These are right on the edge of the lake with a stream running behind them.  If you want a stunning view of the lake and glacier from your tent, this is the place to be.  The glacier and lake fill your view, looking out from your tent and once in a while the soothing sound of the stream behind you is broken by the crashing of a rock slide across the lake.  They happen fairly often.  About every hour your heart skips a beat as the frightening rumbling sound of fridge sized boulders tumbling down to the lake.

 

 

Flowers at Wedgemount Lake - Vancouver Hiking Magazine July 2012

The list of reasons why Wedgemount is amazing is quite long.  The list of why is is not is pretty short.  The trail is, by necessity, quite steep and very rugged.  It has Wedgemount Lake Falls - Vancouver Hiking Magazine July 2012only a handful of highlights.  A cute bridge 20 minutes into the trail over the crashing Wedgemount Creek is nice.  The trees along the trail are often impressive.  There are two massive boulder fields that make you stare for a minute.  Some nice views back toward the Sea to Sky Highway from the trail.  And the great view, though distant of Wedgemount Falls, crashing loudly 296 metres almost straight down.

The trail is fairly short if compared to other Garibaldi Park trails, at 7k, but it boasts the most elevation gain.  Along the trail if you keep a good pace you will pass a few people who look like they are considering turning back.  You may even see someone run past you on the trail, as Wedge-Runners, they are locally known, do the seemingly impossible.  They can make the lake in about an hour.

A very fast hiking pace will get you to the hut in about 1.5 hours.  A moderate pace takes a little over 2 hours.  And if you are carrying a pack for staying overnight you may take 3+ hours to reach the hut.  Coming down is considerably easier, however, the bashing your knees take from the jarring, downward hiking is for some, more painful than the route up.

 

 

Wedgemount Lake - Vancouver Hiking Magazine July 2012

The deep snow that accumulates over the long winter around Wedgemount Lake takes until July to melt.  So don't be surprised to find a glaze of ice on the lake at the start of July.  In 2011 there was ice on the lake until mid July, but that was unusual.  There will be patches of snow near the top of the trail, early in July, but not so much inconvenient as it is a curiosity.  Walking on snow in 22c heat is always fun.  You won't need to bring too much water on the trail or at the top as there are frequent and excellent water sources.

July, August and September are the best months to hike Wedge, however, snow doesn't start accumulating again until November.  There are annoying bugs to deal with during July and August.  Mosquitoes and huge flies come out pretty strong.  By September they have all but vanished, yet the beautiful weather remains.  The grapefruit scented mosquito repellent you see for sale at most stores in Whistler seems to repel the mosquitoes surprisingly well.

Wedgemount Lake is an amazing place to sleep without a tent.  You will often see people on those beautiful wooden platforms in sleeping bags asleep under the stars.  Though the Wedge Hut is quite amazing, it is often empty during the summer as people tend to bring tents in case it is full, then end up using their tents on one of the great tent spots.  The drawbacks for the hut are just that it is a bit dark inside and its about a 8 minute walk to reach fresh water.  The hut is free to use and there is no reservation system.  The parking lot at the trailhead is quite large and also no charge.

Wedgemount Lake Sunset - Vancouver Hiking Magazine July 2012

 

 

Keyhole Hot Springs - Vancouver Hiking Magazine July 2012

 

Keyhole Hot Springs (aka Pebble Creek)

An incredible alternative to the nearby, though access obliterated Meager Creek

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Sometimes called Pebble Creek Hot Springs, Keyhole Hot Springs is a very beautiful hot springs.  All natural, except for some cementing modifications to create two beautiful spring filled tubs on the edge of the loud, crashing, and wonderfully beautiful, Upper Lillooet River.  Located just 7k past the old, and now destroyed Meager Creek Hot Springs turnoff and bridge, Keyhole Hot Springs is the only realistically viable hot springs for over 100k.  The next closest, nice, well known, and Waterfalls Opposite Keyhole Hot Springs - Vancouver Hiking Magazine July 2012easily accessible hot springs are back past Pemberton and up along and past the huge Lillooet Lake.  Which of course is where the Upper Lillooet River flows into.

Keyhole Hot Springs is named after the beautiful Keyhole Falls that can be seen up river a couple kilometres.  If you drive a bit higher than where you park for the hot springs you will be able to see them.  There are a few keyhole-looking falls you will notice if you hike the area.  In fact on the hike into Keyhole Hot Springs there is an amazing viewpoint five minutes into the trail with a view across the river valley to a beautiful keyhole-looking falls.  The frequency of these types of falls in the area  is evidently the reason for the old, Pebble Creek Hot Springs name fading away.  Pebble Creek is located about 5k south of the hot springs and was the location of the old trailhead which was a nasty, though pretty hike along the boulder filled rivers edge to Keyhole Hot Springs.

The springs at Keyhole are incredible and varied.  From the two luxury pools at the rivers edge, to the more serene and varied, do-it-yourself pools you dig into the sand with the resident shovel.  This area of sand is beautifully located just steps from the rushing river and has plenty of room for a fire, several cut log chairs and interesting rock features everywhere.  The water temperature is perfect and perfectly adjustable.  Though the taps in the two cemented pools are not functioning.  They just let hot water flow through.  The temperature can be cooled by adding river water with a bucket provided.  Originally the taps could be closed and opened to moderate the temperature.

The 15-30 minute hike to the falls is fairly steep and some may have difficulty with it as it requires using branches and tree roots at times to lower yourself down the trail, which is often on loose and steep dirt.  If you can manage to carry all your things in a pack on your back you will be happier and safer on the hike.  Although bears are in the vicinity, sightings are extremely rare between the trailhead and springs. There are however, frequent deer sightings in the area.  The campsite has a safe cooler up a ladder to a bear-proof loft that can be readily be used to avoid bear conflicts.

For more info and directions to Keyhole Hot Springs click here.

 

 

Meager Creek Hot Springs - Vancouver Hiking Magazine July 2012

 

Meager Creek Hot Springs

Access was obliterated by the 2010 mudslide, but still reachable by the brave

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With the catastrophic mud and debris slide let loose from Devastator Peak in 2010, the nice new (in 2009) million dollar bridge to the Meager Creek Hot Springs was destroyed.  Though destroyed doesn't even begin to describe it.  Looking on the now, dead end road, where the bridge once stood, the place still looks a mess.  "Meager Creek FSR is closed indefinitely; no access to the hot springs."  This is from the BCParks Upper Lillooet Provincial Park site, and evidently quite accurate.

Dead and still dying grey ghosts of trees still stand as they did in piles of forest wreckage.  Even the road in looks bizarre.  The road was simply bulldozed back to life.  Meager Creek Geothermal Area - Vancouver Hiking Magazine July 2012On either side, hemmed in by piles of dirt and dead trees.  The mudslide that did this seems beyond belief.  This river valley in the midst of a beautiful, green forest, is a sea of brown.  Mud, dirt, and dead trees.

At its peak of popularity in 1994, Meager Creek Hot Springs had 30,000 visitors a year.  With the unrestrained numbers, vandalism and violence broke out at the springs often so the BC Forest Service stepped in.  They hired an on-site supervisor, limited vehicle access and charged a usage fee.  Then the big slide of 2010 happened and now of course it only gets a few, very motivated visitors.

The access now, though you can barely call it that, is by crossing a the slow, though potentially dangerous, Upper Lillooet River where the bridge used to be, hiking 7k through the mudslide debris, then crossing the small, though fast flowing, Capricorn Creek to reach the much intact Meager Creek Hot Springs.  If you have a canoe you can paddle across the Upper Lillooet at this wide, though slow flowing area where the bridge used to be, then make the interesting hike through the considerable debris left from the catastrophic slide.  Spring runoff does increase the water through this area considerably and canoe crossing becomes quite tricky and even dangerous.

The landscape across the river in the debris field is hypnotizing.  Every inch is mangled and wrecked looking.  Twisted trees, extraordinary looking rocks.. and nothing is where it looks like it should be.

Both river and creek are fairly shallow, even during the spring runoff.  But then again the Upper Lillooet River has only had a couple years to erode back into a conventional river through the debris field.  If you are into adventure Meager is still an option, but the whole access route is fraught with peril from another all-to-possible mudslide or trouble at one of the river crossings.

For more info, directions and maps to Meager Creek Hot Springs click here. For info a directions to the more accessible, Keyhole Hot Springs 7k north, click here.

 

 

Meager Creek Hot Springs 2009 - Vancouver Hiking Magazine July 2012

Meager Creek Hot Springs 2012 - Vancouver Hiking Magazine July 2012

 

 

Skookumchuck Hot Springs - Vancouver Hiking Magazine July 2012

 

Skookumchuck Hot Springs (aka T'sek)

Both beautiful and tacky, the Skookumchuck Hot Springs lay along the huge and crashing Lillooet River in an area rich in history and unexpectedly wonderful

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Skookumchuck Hot Springs, located two hours north of Whistler along the edge of the huge Lillooet River.  The name Skookumchuck means "strong water" in the language of the Chinook people of the Pacific Northwest.  The name is associated with the hot springs because of the nearby First Nation community of Skatin, Skookumchuck Hot Springs - Vancouver Hiking Magazine July 2012which was once, and usually still called Skookumchuck.

The Skookumchuck Hot Springs were also once known as St. Agnes Well during the days of the Fraser Canyon Gold Rush, but that name has fallen into disuse.  They are also known locally by the Skatin name as the T'sek Hot Springs.  See a short history of Skookumchuck Hot Springs here. Though having three names, it is hard to beat the name Skookumchuck.  It is awkward and beautiful at the same time, which describes the Skookumchuck Hot Springs perfectly.  The tubs are a clumsy collection of odd looking tubs, which at first sight make you chuckle.  But, after a few minutes, the extraordinary charm of the place takes over and Skookumchuck becomes oddly beautiful and wonderful.

The Skookumchuck Hot Springs start in a pool which is far to hot to use so there are a network of tubes emanating from this pool to feed a ramshackle array of tubs.  There are five tubs, which include one very large one under an A-frame which could hold 10 people and is beautifully comfortable.  A smaller one under a half A-frame privacy screen which could hold 8 under the stars.  And three more open tubs.  Clothing, you will quickly discover, is optional.  There are small change rooms and one outhouse a few metres away.

Skookumchuck Hot Springs is the only, properly maintained and supervised hot springs of the four mentioned here.  As a result there is a small and well worth it, charge to use them.  Also, the campground is first class.  Beautiful, secluded forest setting on the gorgeous Lillooet River.  Firewood is even provided at each tent spot.

The wild and beautiful Sloquet Hot Springs is just one hour past Skookumchuck and so Skookumchuck makes a great pit stop on the way to and from Sloquet.

For more information, maps and info on Skookumchuck Hot Springs click here.

 

 

Sloquet Hot Springs - Vancouver Hiking Magazine July 2012

 

Sloquet Hot Springs

All natural, waterfall fed hot springs paradise deep in the vast Canadian wilderness

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Sloquet Hot Springs is wonderfully designed, as it were, though randomly by nature. The large, spread out campsite lies a short walk from the springs. You have to follow a dark and quickly descending trail toward an enormous, crashing river. As you near, you can smell the unusual, but kind of nice hot springs smell, and you see Sloquet Hot Springs Main Pool - Vancouver Hiking Magazine July 2012steam rising all around you, some steam rising, bizarrely, out of the grass clearing on the edge of the river. On your left a rising cliff, on your right the crashing river. The path narrows and steepens. Finally, you come to a large fallen tree which the trail seems to run to. So huge though as to not worry you walking the length of. Then, there it is. The massive fallen tree flanks it. Nestled between the tree and a cliff, in a large triangular area, with the river forming the third side are the Sloquet Hot Springs.

Sloquet is the contrast of both Skookumchuck Hot Springs and Meager Creek Hot Springs.  Meager is artificial, but wonderfully constructed by the BC Forest Service.  Skookumchuck Hot Springs is shabby, though comfy.  Sloquet has the best of both of these and none of the worst. It consists of seven pools formed with rocks positioned to segment pools out of what must have been one huge pool. It is in a dramatically natural, cozy and hidden place. Every aspect seems fined tuned for comfort. The cold, dark cliff at your back, specked with candles. The majestic river so loud and so close. The scent of cedar. As if it could get any more perfect you'll notice the water comes from a small waterfall cascading down the cliff.  What a wonderful place.

The drive to Sloquet Hot Springs is a bit long and three plus hours north of Whistler.  It is very beautiful though as the gravel road runs along the huge Lillooet Lake.  The drive also takes you past Skookumchuck Hot Springs, which is an ideal pit stop as it is two thirds of the way to Sloquet.  The last 8k to Sloquet is on an unmaintained logging road so can get a bit sketchy.  You do see cars at Sloquet, but the rough, last 8k must take a toll on them.  In the winter months this 8k is not plowed of snow, so you must hike in.  But of course you will almost certainly have them to yourselves from December to mid May.

For more info, maps and directions to Sloquet Hot Springs click here.